2019 Boundary Waters Newbies

The process of prepping for a trip into the Boundary Waters is one that we’ve mastered more and more each year. Although this was only our third trip into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW), the planning felt so much easier than the first time. Like anything in life, the more experience, the more natural it will feel.

Keeping in mind we had a first-time BWCAW group with us we wanted to keep the route manageable. At the same time, we wanted them to have the real wilderness experience with plenty of portage experience and feel like we weren’t a stone’s throw away from our entry point. We chose a route with 6 portages, the longest portage was 52 rods. 1 rod = 16.5 feet which is about the length of a solo canoe.

The night before our entry into the BWCAW we suggested our friends stay at Tuscarora Lodge and Canoe Outfitter. Andy and I like to camp for free somewhere close the night before we enter the BWCAW. We thought our friends would be more comfortable in a bunkhouse for their first trip.  We met our friends at the lodge early Saturday morning, had a delicious all you can eat french toast breakfast, watched a safety video on the BWCAW, and picked up our permit. We ended up putting the canoes into the water at 9:30 AM. Our goal was to be paddling by 8 AM to avoid the winds that can pick up as the day goes on but the timing doesn’t always go as you plan, especially with all you can eat french toast and good conversation in front of you. Flexibility is key when going on trips like this!

Our entry point for this trip was Cross Bay Lake (entry 50).  We had to launch the canoes at the Cross River landing near Tuscarora Lodge and portage three times before actually entering the BWCAW.

It took time on the first few portages to mentor the group on how to carry a canoe overhead, how to manage all of your stuff while doing a portage, and successfully get in and out of the canoe. Thinking back to our first experience of a portage in 2017, the most challenging part of a portage is simply learning how to manage all the stuff. During our first portage ever we just had too many loose items in our canoe. This meant when we got to the portage we needed to stuff items into the pack, and this took time. It’s important to be mindful of others and clear the area in a timely manner at a portage. You can only have up to 9 people and 4 canoes in an area like a portage at one time, so there might be others waiting for you to clear the area, especially at busier lakes. Another tricky part of the portage for beginners is knowing where to land your canoe to unload. Portages can be rocky, slippery, and drop off into deep water very quickly. We were sure to keep our group safe and have them land the canoes where it made the most sense.

We went to some awesome and informative tutorials on the BWCAW at Midwest Mountaineering before our first trip, but the PowerPoint notes and helpful hints mentioned don’t always “click” or make sense until you experience it for yourself. This isn’t suggesting you shouldn’t seek information beforehand, because you should, but just keeping in mind the real-life experience is most valuable. Humans of all ages learn best through hands-on experiences. We can sit through as many tutorials as desired, but until you experience it for yourself, you don’t always know how to handle a situation. It’s called “field experience”. Think about your college experience… where did you learn the most? In a real-world work environment? That’s exactly what our answer would be. Unfourntely, we’ve heard too many people mention that colleges and universities don’t offer a real-world field experience. Hiking Thru Life is here to do that for you in the outdoors. 

Our route took us through a calm, shallow portion of the Cross River to begin. We then portaged to a small unnamed lake where it took only a couple paddle strokes to reach the other side. The short portage then brought us to Ham Lake which is still outside of the Boundary Waters but has 4 campsites on it. You finally enter the Boundary Waters after the third portage from Ham Lake into Cross Bay Lake which is a narrow, shallow lake winding through the wilderness. There are opportunity to see moose and other wildlife through this stretch. We did get lucky enough to see a moose but not until we were on the next lake, Rib Lake. The moose was feeding on the south shoreline but we were too far to snap a picture of it.

We portaged on to Lower George Lake for a brief paddle before reaching our last portage to Karl Lake where we camped. We originally planned to camp at one of the many sites on Long Island Lake just south of Karl, but it was getting late in the day and we didn’t feel up to fighting the choppy waters of a larger lake. The campsite we stayed at was great! It was small and private, tucked away in a bay secluded from canoe traffic between lakes.

Some of the lakes made it feel like we were in the canoe for a few short seconds, then all of a sudden out and portaging again. I was worried about our first-timers, thinking that maybe we had planned too extreme of a route. We took breaks as needed and were sure to stay hydrated. Taking new people into the BWCAW was also an experience for us knowing that we need to keep at a beginner’s pace. We are used to a more extreme pace. Our first BWCAW trip included a few 100+ rod portages and 2-hour paddles. With this in mind, there was always wait times on the lakes for the group to catch up, wait times at each portage to make sure everyone was back in their canoes with all the gear safely, and making sure everyone was comfortable along the way. It wasn’t what we were used to going out by ourselves, but it’s exactly what we wanted. It brought so much joy knowing that we were able to share the Boundary Waters with friends who had the curiosity, open-mindedness, and adventurous spirits to try out the magical wilderness area that we have learned to know and grow so fond of. Our hope is that our friends now have the same feelings as us and will make regular visits up there as well with the confidence gained on this trip. 

In total, our trip to the campsite on Lake took 6.5 hours. It was a total of 7 miles. No matter where the destination, it’s always rewarding to sit, take in the beauty, sip water, and have a snack once you get to camp. Remember you just worked your butt off and it’s mindful to thank your body and mind for all its hard work!  After that moment, the motivation kicks in to set up camp.  Dinner the first night was simple, a Mountain House freeze-dried meal. Flavors varied and everyone was impressed. It was our first time trying this brand and we look forward to trying different meals provided by this brand.  Everyone was well fed and just needed a s’more to top off the meal! 

Everyone slept hard the first night. There’s something so soothing about falling asleep to the sound of lake water moving, wildlife making sounds, and trees branches rustling in the winds.  One of the beauties about the BWCAW is waking up and fishing. All of the guys went fishing in the morning and we had fish to cook for breakfast on the campfire! Along with the northern pike, we had powdered eggs, pancakes, and bacon. We were all fully satisfied!

The afternoon brought us for a short paddle around the lake. There were a few loons out and we saw a bald eagle fly overhead.

It was a bit overcast so we didn’t stay out for too long. Once back at the campsite the rain started trickling down even more. We told our friends that rain is a part of the experience. It’s something we look forward to when up there. As long as you are prepared, the rain is no big deal. We brought a tarp and were able to make a shelter to sit under while the rain passed. We enjoyed hot chocolate, pre-rationed lunch portions*, and conversations for a few hours while the rain passed through. The conversations you have while out in the wilderness are deep and connective. All of us were able to learn from each other at a deeper level than you can in the rush of daily life. There is a very powerful connection you gain when surrounded by wilderness. No distractions, no “to-do” list, nowhere to go, and the only option is to talk amongst the company you are surrounded with.

*Pre rationed lunch portions:  We prepared a bag of food for lunch on Saturday and Sunday. At the entry point, we handed a gallon Ziploc bag of food to each couple and told them it was their snack/lunch rations for the duration of the trip. The rations included:

• 2 peanut butter wraps per person (wrapped in wax paper to later use as a fire starter) 
• 2 protein bars per person
• 2 Bayobel cheese wheels per person
• A small bag of beef jerky to share amongst the couple

This was enough to sustain everyone in between larger breakfast and dinner meals. One thing about trips like this is learning to appreciate what you have in front of you and being able to ration those portions. This is a lesson learned over time. We used to pack way too much food on these trips, Sarah being fearful we would go hungry, but we always ended up with extra food. This is unnecessary extra weight nobody needs to carry.  With proper planning, there is plenty to eat and nobody will starve.

Although the heavy rain let up in the afternoon, drizzles still continued. The girls had a paddle in the rain while the guys fished from the shore. The plan was to eat fish for dinner but as mentioned before, flexibility is important during trips such as this. No fish were caught so we had a light dinner. A camp chow meal which you can purchase from Trail Center off the Gunflint Trail. Delicious, local to MN, and highly recommended. We also had some potatoes and s’mores again.

By the last portage on our way back, my friend Bailey said, “This was so much easier. The communication was smooth between my partner and I and we just knew what each other’s roles were during a portage. Coming in was a lot more stressful!”

Your first trip to the Boundary Waters should be memorable and special. You can listen to the experience with our first-timers on the Hiking Thru Life podcast episode #3 Boundary Waters Newbies.  With proper planning, you are bound to have a successful first experience! What tips do you have for first-timers? Share in the comments!

Peace, love, and hike thru life!